Use at least 2" of insulation around the chamber: The first inch or two should be Kaowool - the outer layer can be pearlite or vermiculite. Grussingcustomknives, Note that most forges will need tweaking again after they come up to full heat and if you do not use a regulator they will need tweaking as the pressure in the bottle changes---use a regulator!!!!! A relatively smooth, not rough, sound is desired. March 6, 2012 in Gas Forges, I'm starting this thread here as I think it might get a few more hits than in the forge section. Thanks, Chris. This burner does take some time to fine tune but it is very efficient; it gets the forge very hot very quickly. You can experiment with making the flames more rich by partially blocking the intake ports with tape. Clear editor. If you choose to go with a 3/4" burner, stick to his plans they are well put together! Anywhere from 4-25. This is a piece of scrap Feel free to move it if I've done a bad, bad thing. 1- What kind of burner does it have? What BlackMetalViking said. Just a start of the questions!!! Ok, I built a Frosty T burner. tuning should be done outside the forge, with the burner clamped in a vise, where the flame and sound can be easily observed and heard. Display as a link instead, × I've searched the web and have tried to search this forum to no avail and am wondering if there is a good thread, ect. So every winter we start hammering on folks that while the gas forge makes a closed shop nice and warm; we would prefer to argue with you on IFI rather than attend your estate sale. An atmospheric burner forge should have 350 cu in in the forge or less using a 3/4" burner. The brick have me a good flat surface. × In fact I'm building two. Indicated a piece of pipe to center, threaded the tee on, drilled, and tapped before moving anything. Note that neutral should also be the hottest so if you look at the refractory opposite the burner when it glows the brightest it's neutral---better for kaowool as it heats/cools fast when adjusting compared to a hard firebrick. One more question though. 7- How much restriction is there in the front and back doors? Once you know what you're doing is time to start tweaking things to what suits you best. or should I use a 1" hole? I forged out merchant couplers(thread protectors) to mimic the rough 1:12 taper for the flare nozzles. Are you tuning in or out of the forge? Light the burner carefully, with a medium to low pressure setting, and slide the 1" diameter nozzle tube in until the flame goes out. I bought some 3/4" tees hoping to get the mig too closer into the burner tube, but I'm not sure if they will work. I'll take some pics today when I get to work. I am actually designing a second forge around two of these burners because they are that good. ????? I was thinking of putting the new holes directly on top instead of at a 45. These forge plans show you how to build a box that can retain the heat from a burner so the metal can be heated enough to be hammered into the desired shape. Thanks for your time, It's actually not too bad. How far down should the tip sit in the T? If you are working large stock or a lot of pieces you may want to turn the fuel up and adjust the burn to put a lot of heat in the forge. What pressure are you running at? I have to choke one side completly off and almost 20% of the other side to get it to stabilize. Choose a safe location so as not to set fire to the house while concentrating on the end of the burner. Questions, questions, questions. Fire-Brick? I also want to be able to use the forge upright for melting aluminum and other alloys.   You cannot paste images directly. I was able to get a much bluer, louder flame. I would recommend a max of 250 cubic inch forge for the 1" burner. Now that it's dryer it seems better. Looks like 3/4" but pics can be deceiving. (some that don't have a choke can be adjusted by adding a strip of tape or aluminum foil to cover part of the open end (the COLD END) 9- Who is near you that can give you advice. Blown burners are generally easy to tune. How do I tune a Side Arm Burner? If you repeat the process with that tip and still have a heavily reducing flame then you'll want to drop back to the .025 tip. If you go to vibrant blue, especially with some purplish hues in it then you've trimmed too far and need to start over with a different tip. By Idk. In order to build this forge burner… Set a fuel rate (pressure) and then add air until you get the noisiest burn---that's generally neutral then you can add or subtract a bit of air to get what you want if you don't want it neutral. DIY Forge Burner Complete Parts List; As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I live in  Denver. May clear up when it heats up. If yo need a hand ask me. (When I relined my blown forge, the gas pressure that worked fine for the previous runs now was too hot and melted a piece that was left in too long...). Remove any constricting rim or rough projections in the throat with a round file. In general I use 1/2 way looking straight through the air ports and usually have to trim farther back. I'll be fine tuning today and I think I'll go with the 45 degree instead of on top. I sure wish there was someone that lived close to me for some one on one hands on advice while fine tuning. It makes a difference. IF you want to try and figure it out on your own with the enthusiastic help of random people on the internet have at it, I'll leave you alone. Is what you're describing happening inside the forge or outside? Do this outside since there will be some escape of unburned propane. It resemble those of other t burners I've seen. tank plus time gas end hassle.   Your link has been automatically embedded. To tune your burner you will need to remove it from the forge and work in open air. To tune a Side Arm Burner you will need to remove it from the forge and work with it open air. The jets point directly down the middle of the burner tube. Clear editor.   Pasted as rich text. In use the burner sucks in air from around it. Neutral is usually best for most smithing though I have used an extremely oxidizing atmosphere to put a rough "skin" on a dragon I was forging---had to remove the very thick scale leaving the rough steel it created. This is about the size of R. Reil's mini - forge and is adequately heated by a single R. Reil EZ burner The rule of thumb is about 240 cu in of chamber for one EZ burner. Upload or insert images from URL. Two most common ways this happens are: 1: not enough ventilation and so the percentage of exhaust products in the ambient air goes up---often a problem in winter as the forge makes such a nice shop heater as it's trying to kill you. Daddystayshome.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Side note: VENTILATION---are you getting enough air into the shop? I have about 2" of insulation in my forge. that might explain how to best adjust the forge. I put together my stacked brick forge. And last question what length is good to start with? I really want to see some pics please. My eyeball guesstimation says the tube is too long. You can post now and register later. Depending on if I have both ends open or not it will occasionally fall out of tune where the flame goes out and the gas is ignighted my the other burner. I know they won't be as efficient, and the burners likely won't act te same as in the 20lb propane cylinder forge, but I'm just hoping to get a hang on how they're supposed to work. Now that we’ve completed the burner we’re ready to start on the housing. So yesterday i asked about forges (i did ALOT of reasearch) and I decided to build one with a t burner (actually 2 ). I bought some hard bricks yesterday to make a little bench too cubby forge to make some stuff to hopefully sell at a craft fair coming up next month. Yeah I think it's just too wet. If you want to build a T burner search out the Illustrated burner plan here on Iforge and STOP talking to other people. I will be using this forge to forge stuff and forge weld Damascus. Should I use a 1 3/4" hole with set screws to mount the burners or is that going to cause blow back? First it gets the air intakes farther from exhaust gasses from the forge opening. A forge built with a Freon Bottle supplies this. I'll keep you all posted. Less of a problem for burners sourcing their air LOWER than HIGHER. (Hence my dislike of top mount burners; though with proper ventilation this is not so much an issue.). A PERFECT example of why you should NOT consult people in the internet. Or maybe split the difference with a .030? This acts as a restricter plate or choke to reduce the amount of air entering the burner, helping to reach the correct propane to air mixture. If for whatever reason you cannot find the parts but think you can replace them with something similar, ask before you buy (include pictures if you can). Do you have pictures? Also does it really matter where the holes are placed? Secondly they wont be fighting each other for air. Use a hand held propane torch to light, and relight, the burner and later to light the forge once the burner(s) are installed. Any one of them can cause problems. You tune your forge for the work planned. Frosty is one of the few I would recommend regarding gas forges. 2- Does the burner go through the top, center?? August 2, 2016 in Gas Forges. Atmospheric are a bit trickier; but the better burners are easier to tune that the not so good ones. Good Morning, Who's plans are you following and have you asked the author? I like to tune them when it is dark, because it is easier to see the flame and different colors. Torch file sets work best. Test it IN the forge, the confined volume effects back pressure and combustion air induction, they perform differently in or out of the forge. If I add more air(or choke less) the flames go out. Remember that CO is cumulative in a leaky bucket system---you can build it up faster than you get rid of it. Don't know about the Diamond Back, But I have a 2 burner knife makers forge from NC Tooling and it works great , even for welding. :mellow: Display as a link instead, × I'll get an update and post back later today, Alright. In your situation I'd probably be trying the .030 mig tip, but it is possible that you may need to go smaller. Blown burners are generally easy to tune. If it's positioned such that some of that air containing exhaust from the forge can be drawn into the burner and so re-run through it----CO production will SPIKE. However if you're having to choke that much there's something else going on, it shouldn't be inducing air that strongly. The forge is small enough that I can run the burner at under 5 psi and keep the interior at a good working temperature.However, this burner design does work well in larger forges, many large forges even use multiple burners. I picked up the 3/4 on my way home. The plans have the rules of thumb for the ratios to make different sized burners. If you want to make hammers, tools and Damascus - this is the burner for you! As a blacksmith gas forge the atmospheric forge is a good starter gas forge. Kao wool? I did have to cut it off about half way though. Payback for better forge liner is sooner than you think, even at only $2.50 a gl. Buzzkill made a good point that I was overlooking: back pressure from the forge. Idk, I still have alot of playing around to do tomorrow. By Frosty's T burner plans have a complete parts break down. I'm at a loss.   Your link has been automatically embedded. If you've trimmed a .035 tip enough so that it protrudes less than halfway across the openings when viewed from the side of the T and you still have a significantly rich (light blue to greenish) flame then you'll want to try again with a .030 tip. By color and secondary flames it's burning pretty rich trim the jet back farther about 1/32" at a time and remember to clean any burs from the hole. Gary. 5- What is the tip/gas jet diameter? I've posted a T burner plan in as simple language as I my dented brain can and I had help. I need forge welding temp!! I've been playing around with it and here's what I've got. 8- Is the flame blue or yellow? At every fuel pressure there is a corresponding amount of air to get the burn *you* want. My double 1" burner forge is more than capable of heating 46lbs of steel to a white temperature! The discussion is kind of painful, but there's some good info in the archive pages. I use a band saw, but they will cut easily with a hack saw or even a wood hand saw. × The most important factor you MUST build to is the size of the forge chamber, it's VOLUME. That doesn't look to be a problem with yours but it is a plus. Difficult to do through a computor. I planned on covering the brick with the kast-o-lite and then a layer of plistix just like the kaowool. I presume you have a LOT of experience of damascus and forge welding to go with the LOT of research on gas forges, so how many years of both do you have? It's cheaper to pay up front and save over the long term than gradually upgrade over time, honest, been there done that, wish I hadn't. 6- Does the propane bottle freeze after over 1/2 hour of use?? Re-run meaning??? Atmospheric burners generally have some sort of choke plate that adjusts how much air the burner can draw in. More pressure and maybe,... turn the «T» 90*... your set-up make a kind of air tunnel. Thanks so much for the help, Thomas. Too much and you are throwing away gas (and money). I get stable fandom my t Buber at 9 psi but 12-14 psi is best in my forge? It's pretty hard to get a picture of that though so I put a video on youtube, I'm no expert but turning up the pressure helped mine stable out. And ive been talking to a friend on Instagram and he says 1.25 inch pipe for the burner and 1.5x1.5x1.25 inch tee but it looks like people on here use 3/4 inch pipe for the burner tubes. Pick an established forge and burner design and use it a while. I used a milling machine to drill the holes in the tees. I'm in Denver. I've had my old Mankel Farrier for a few weeks now and have gone through about 15-gallons of propane banging away on metal, mild steel, stainless, and copper. Q. Choked it was very stable through the whole range, but it lacked "fury" if that means anything. Be sure the flare, or straight nozzle, is adjusted correctly in conformance with the tuning instructions.   You cannot paste images directly. One thing about top mount burners is that they often put out more CO as they can re-run the exhaust that rises as it comes out of the forge. Takes a minute to get going but after a minute or so it's going better. Thomas thanks for the explanation. I know YouTube is not a reliable source of info, but my flames do. I trimmed it all the way down to about 3/8" from the face of the brass fitting. I'm going directly by your plans but I got 8" 3/4"  pipes instead of 6". remember 95% on you tube is rubbish and at least 50% is dangerous rubbish so check with those who know and are well known for knowing what they are talking about. Scary Mc, Pick an established forge and burner design and use it a while. Paste as plain text instead, × But Sam is right. The only difference between what I have and the directions is the 1/8mipX1/4 flare adapters that were available were 90* elbows. Do you mean blow-back or as in liquid terms, blow-by, as in coming back up through the burner or through the hole? I currently have 1" with 3/4" chase on them. The naturally aspirated burner is easily capable of reaching welding heat, and above, but it is easy to "defeat" your burners if you create any "back-pressure" in your forge chamber. You can do a lot of heating of metal in this size of space but you do get creative in figuring out how to put odd shaped steel in the forge chamber. I'm going to drag up this dead thread to seek advice on my build. Reducing will have a bit of unburnt gas in the exhaust plume that will burn as it hit open air. A. I am making 2 3/4" T burners. Ideas, threads, insults? The brick likes a flat surface to sit on. × What is a torch file set? What you're trying to achieve is a neutral to slightly fuel rich flame with little to no secondary or tertiary flame envelope. 12-15 lbs of pressure for welding and about 8 for just forging Tony G   Pasted as rich text. Burner Mounting: The Nanomongo burner, or T-Rex, produce such intense vacuum and gas stream pressure that they can be mounted horizontally along the base mounting structure of the forge, and a supply pipe run up to a short nozzle mounted in the forge shell. For knifemaking I often run a bit reducing to lower scaling and decarburization---however this also increases CO production so VENTILATE! (I have 2 10'x10' roll up doors on opposite sides of the shop along the general wind direction *AND* a 1'x30' ceiling vent and open eaves!)   Your previous content has been restored. Elevation (above sea level) has a big effect but being in Florida that should not be an issue for you. , so i am actually designing a second forge around two of these burners because they that. 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